Goat Care 101
Housing: Goats need shelter from the elements. Ideally the shelter would be well ventilated but not so breezy that they can’t stay warm in cold weather. A good layer of straw helps keep them warm on very cold nights. Consider a heat lamp for very young goats, goats with short hair coats, and/or goats that are sick/convalescing. Make sure your heat lamp is in a safe location, however, as heat lamp accidents are a major cause of barn fires.
Fencing: A good fence will not only keep your goats in but also keep most predators out. It should be tall enough that they can’t jump or climb over. Electricity works well if goats are properly trained to it. But if they can go under a hot wire they will!
Feed: Most goats do well on high quality grass hay. A late pregnant and/or lactating doe will need a high quality alfalfa/grass mix that is higher in protein and calcium than straight grass hay. But most other categories of goats thrive on quality grass hay. Bucks and especially wethers do not need as much protein, and in fact will be more prone to urinary tract obstructions if the diet is too high in protein and/or if the calcium/phosphorous ratio is too out of balance (either way). This is the main reason not to give bucks and wethers grain- they do not need high phosphorous and protein levels in their diet. Also, consuming grain when not necessary promotes obesity which further predisposes goats to problems with arthritis and metabolic dysfunction. Likewise, do not feed bucks/wethers high levels of alfalfa (especially second cut) as the elevated calcium in the diet can also cause problems with the calcium/phosphorous ratio. Treats are okay once in a while in the form of veggies and fruit but avoid grain as a treat.
Grazing: Ideally your goats should have access to natural forage. They will graze pastureland but they particularly like to browse shrubs, trees, and a variety of weeds. If they can’t browse on a regular basis you can always bring them tree clippings and other garden waste as long as it is not toxic/poisonous to them.
Supplements: Goats must have access to both a loose salt and a mineral supplement to maintain healthy skin and proper musculoskeletal, digestive, and immune function. The ideal set up provides a buffet style of options for them to choose what they need. Offer a loose salt (iodized if possible), a loose goat mineral mix, and even kelp if available. Keep the containers up off the ground to avoid fecal contamination and out of the weather to maintain palatability. In Montana, the best mineral mix I have come across for goats is made by Westfeeds and is high in copper and zinc. The AG Depot downtown carries this “Montana goat mineral” mix. Makes sure supplements are available 24/7.
Routine Care: Trim feet as needed, usually every 1-2 months. Vaccinate against tetanus and clostridium types C and D to prevent kids from experiencing enterotoxemia if their gut environment changes (often from stress or overeating). The ideal time to vaccinate is to give the pregnant doe a combo shot of C, D, and T one month before kidding. The antibodies in her colostrum will protect the kids until their immune systems are mature enough to mount their own immune responses. Vaccinate kids at 4-6 weeks of age and one month later at 8-10 weeks. Boostering yearly or every other year (for non pregnant goats) should maintain their immunity to tetanus. Deworm only if fecal exam shows evidence of parasitism. Round worms are not as common here in the cold, dry, Montana climate (and my pastures aren't irrigated). I find that I don't usually need to deworm for roundworms here on my farm. Coccidia, however, is a protozoa that can cause significant disease in young goats under 6 months of age. I have learned not to underestimate the role this protozoa can make in contributing to chronic poor doing let alone sudden death. I typically treat goats with sulfadimethoxine around 4-6 weeks of age and then again after weaning around 10-12 weeks to ensure they maintain their digestive integrity.
Fencing: A good fence will not only keep your goats in but also keep most predators out. It should be tall enough that they can’t jump or climb over. Electricity works well if goats are properly trained to it. But if they can go under a hot wire they will!
Feed: Most goats do well on high quality grass hay. A late pregnant and/or lactating doe will need a high quality alfalfa/grass mix that is higher in protein and calcium than straight grass hay. But most other categories of goats thrive on quality grass hay. Bucks and especially wethers do not need as much protein, and in fact will be more prone to urinary tract obstructions if the diet is too high in protein and/or if the calcium/phosphorous ratio is too out of balance (either way). This is the main reason not to give bucks and wethers grain- they do not need high phosphorous and protein levels in their diet. Also, consuming grain when not necessary promotes obesity which further predisposes goats to problems with arthritis and metabolic dysfunction. Likewise, do not feed bucks/wethers high levels of alfalfa (especially second cut) as the elevated calcium in the diet can also cause problems with the calcium/phosphorous ratio. Treats are okay once in a while in the form of veggies and fruit but avoid grain as a treat.
Grazing: Ideally your goats should have access to natural forage. They will graze pastureland but they particularly like to browse shrubs, trees, and a variety of weeds. If they can’t browse on a regular basis you can always bring them tree clippings and other garden waste as long as it is not toxic/poisonous to them.
Supplements: Goats must have access to both a loose salt and a mineral supplement to maintain healthy skin and proper musculoskeletal, digestive, and immune function. The ideal set up provides a buffet style of options for them to choose what they need. Offer a loose salt (iodized if possible), a loose goat mineral mix, and even kelp if available. Keep the containers up off the ground to avoid fecal contamination and out of the weather to maintain palatability. In Montana, the best mineral mix I have come across for goats is made by Westfeeds and is high in copper and zinc. The AG Depot downtown carries this “Montana goat mineral” mix. Makes sure supplements are available 24/7.
Routine Care: Trim feet as needed, usually every 1-2 months. Vaccinate against tetanus and clostridium types C and D to prevent kids from experiencing enterotoxemia if their gut environment changes (often from stress or overeating). The ideal time to vaccinate is to give the pregnant doe a combo shot of C, D, and T one month before kidding. The antibodies in her colostrum will protect the kids until their immune systems are mature enough to mount their own immune responses. Vaccinate kids at 4-6 weeks of age and one month later at 8-10 weeks. Boostering yearly or every other year (for non pregnant goats) should maintain their immunity to tetanus. Deworm only if fecal exam shows evidence of parasitism. Round worms are not as common here in the cold, dry, Montana climate (and my pastures aren't irrigated). I find that I don't usually need to deworm for roundworms here on my farm. Coccidia, however, is a protozoa that can cause significant disease in young goats under 6 months of age. I have learned not to underestimate the role this protozoa can make in contributing to chronic poor doing let alone sudden death. I typically treat goats with sulfadimethoxine around 4-6 weeks of age and then again after weaning around 10-12 weeks to ensure they maintain their digestive integrity.
**Note that my thoughts on routine goat care are not intended to be general medical advice. Please discuss any of the above topics with your own veterinary medical provider!